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TIP OF THE MONTH
January 2008
Winter is the season for humidifiers in most areas of the country. Whether you use gas or electric heat, the air from your furnace will not only keep you warm, it will dry out the air in your home. Humidifiers, by sending small molecules of moisture into the air, can help keep you healthier but also extend the life of your furniture.
There are two kinds of humidifiers on the market today: console and whole-house. Of the two, a whole-house humidifier is the best if you are able to install one to your existing heating system. Console, or single room, humidifiers are available for those that cannot apply the device to their heating systems.
Whole-house humidifiers are the most recommended for many reasons. The first being lower maintenance. Because of lower water requirements, a whole house humidifier can run for quite some time before needing a thorough cleaning. Consoles, on the other hand, may need to be cleaned out weekly during the season to remove any mold and bacteria build up. No matter which type of humidifier you own, you should clean the water pan and make sure if it has any type of filter or pad to clean that also.
While many consoles are sold stating they are full house, few live up to that expectation. The general rule of thumb is to look at the manufacturer's statement of square footage served and cut that by half. This is another reason that whole-house humidifiers are a better bargain. Since they are attached to the existing heating system, they do indeed circulate moisture through the entire house using the existing furnace ductwork. Consoles use a small fan to disperse the water into the air.
The benefits of humidifiers during the heating season are many. The most common are listed below.
1. Can help relieve cold symptoms by making the air you breathe moist, which helps keep your lungs more elastic.
2. Reduce susceptibility to infection by keeping the mucus membranes of your throat and nasal passages moist allowing the tiny hairs (cilia) in both to work at expelling foreign objects such as mold, pet dander and bacteria.
3. Relieve and prevent dry, scratchy skin and lips.
4. Keep valuable wood furniture from drying out and cracking.
5. Reduce static electricity, thus reducing the tiny shocks received from touching certain objects and other people.
6. Can help prevent wood floors from buckling and separating.
7. Reduce nosebleeds, as the air you breathe is moist.
The optimum humidity level in a house is generally 35 - 40 percent, anything above that can induce mold and may make your home feel more like a swamp. An easy way to tell if you have too much humidity in your home is to look at your windows. If there is moisture on the glass, cut back on your humidifier use.
If your only option is a console humidifier, the best place to put it is in the hallway outside the bedroom doors where everyone in the house will reap its benefits.
Tip of the Month for December 2007
Ideally, natural gas burns in an appliance completely and efficiently, mixing with the oxygen in the air to produce harmless carbon dioxide (CO2) and water vapor.
But if conditions aren't right, the natural gas won't combust completely, giving off deadly fumes of carbon monoxide (CO).
When humans breathe in carbon monoxide, it enters the bloodstream and depletes oxygen from the blood cells.
Exposure is harmful at high levels over a short period of time, or at lower levels over a longer period - overnight, for example. Carbon monoxide can be especially dangerous during the winter, when our homes are sealed up tight.
The early effects of CO poisoning mimic the flu, so watch for these warning signs:
Headache
Nausea or vomiting
Dizziness and disorientation
Muscle weakness or fatigue
If the flu-like symptoms are NOT accompanied by fever, if everyone in the family is ill, or if the symptoms disappear when you leave the house, you may have a CO problem - have your gas appliances checked by a service technician right away.
It's important to catch CO problems in the early stages. If exposure continues, the poisoning reaches the central nervous system, resulting in memory loss, slurred speech, loss of consciousness and eventually death.
Prevention is the only way to deal with carbon monoxide, and the best prevention is regular inspection by a service technician. An appliance could produce carbon monoxide if:
Boxes, laundry or other materials are blocking the base, restricting oxygen flow.
The vent hood, pipes or flues are blocked or corroded.
The unit is installed or adjusted improperly.
It's used incorrectly (i.e., heating a room with a gas stove).
The heat exchanger is cracked.
Natural gas furnaces should be inspected every year.
If you have natural gas appliances, a carbon monoxide detector is a must for keeping your family safe.
These devices work like smoke detectors, sounding an audible alarm if a certain level of carbon monoxide (CO) is detected.
A CO detector should be installed near living and sleeping areas of your home. Placing it in the basement near the furnace could produce false reading and make it difficult to hear the alarm.
Source: www.powerhousetv.com
Tip of the Month for November 2007
If you are like most families, winter heating costs put a real strain on the family budget. Now, there is a way for you to lessen the burden of home heating costs. It's called dual fuel and it can save you money.
A Dual Fuel system combines an energy-efficient air-source heat pump with a new or existing gas or propane furnace. The furnace provides supplemental or primary heating in winter, avoiding costly heating charges. This marriage of heating sources can help substantially lower your home heating costs.
In the spring and fall, the heat pump extracts heat from the outside air and pumps it into the house, warming the house more efficiently than with electric resistance heat. Even winter air contains a substantial amount of heat.
On cold winter days and nights (below 30 or 40 degrees Fahrenheit) back-up heat from the fossil fuel furnace is used.
In the summer, the heat pump reverses its cycle and acts as a central air conditioner, extracting heat from inside your home and pumping it outside. A Dual Fuel system will cool and dehumidify your entire house.
Source: www.adamsec.com
Tip of the Month for October 2007
In 1987 the Montreal Protocol, an international environmental agreement, established requirements that began the worldwide phase-out of ozone-depleting CFCs (chlorofluorocarbons). A 1992 amendment to the Montreal Protocol established a schedule for the phase-out of HCFCs (hydrochlorofluorocarbons).
An HCFC known as R-22 has been the refrigerant of choice for residential heat pump and air-conditioning systems for more than four decades. Unfortunately for the environment, releases of R-22 that result from system leaks contribute to ozone depletion. In addition, the manufacture of R-22 results in a by-product that contributes significantly to global warming.
Under the terms of the Montreal Protocol, the U.S. agreed to meet certain obligations by specific dates that will affect the residential heat pump and air-conditioning industry:
January 1, 2010:
After 2010, chemical manufacturers may still produce R-22 to service existing equipment, but not for use in new equipment. As a result, heating, ventilation and air-conditioning (HVAC) system manufacturers will only be able to use pre-existing supplies of R-22 to produce new air conditioners and heat pumps. These existing supplies would include R-22 recovered from existing equipment and recycled.
January 1, 2020:
Use of existing refrigerant, including refrigerant that has been recovered and recycled, will be allowed beyond 2020 to service existing systems, but chemical manufacturers will no longer be able to produce R-22 to service existing air conditioners and heat pumps.
After 2020, the servicing of R-22-based systems will rely on recycled refrigerants. It is expected that reclamation and recycling will ensure that existing supplies of R-22 will last longer and be available to service a greater number of systems.
As R-22 is gradually phased out, non-ozone-depleting alternative refrigerants are being introduced. One of these is R-410A, a blend of hydrofluorocarbons (HFCs), substances that do not contribute to depletion of the ozone layer.
So, don’t forget that when purchasing a new system, you can also speed the transition away from ozone-depleting R-22 by choosing a system that uses ozone-friendly refrigerants.
Source: www.epa.gov
Tip of the Month for September 2007
When programmed correctly, programmable thermostats automatically adjust your home's temperature settings, allowing you to save money and energy while you're away or sleeping. They:
Are more convenient and accurate than manual thermostats and improve your home's comfort.
Contain no mercury.
Save energy and save money on utility bills when used properly.
Are better for the environment, since using less energy helps reduce greenhouse gas emissions associated with energy production.
Programmable thermostats earn the ENERGY STAR by meeting strict energy efficiency guidelines set by the government. These units offer 4 convenient, preprogrammed settings or you can program them yourself to your needs.
If you are like many homeowners and work outside the home during the day and have a different schedule on the weekend, a programmable thermostat can offer many benefits and the return on your investment is usually within 2 years.
Tip of the Month for August 2007
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Q: Why Do I Need Maintenance If My System Is Working?
Many problems are identified during routine maintenance that are quick and inexpensive to eliminate, and save hundreds of dollars in operating and repair costs. For instance, a faulty compressor capacitor will cause your unit to use up to 30% more electricity and compressor overheating. Unchecked, this results in higher utility bills and possible compressor failure. The cost of operating your unit in this condition for two months would exceed the cost of the repair!
Q: Why Should I Replace My Existing Heating Or Air Conditioning System?
You may wish to consider replacing your air conditioning or heating system if it is old, inefficient, or in need of repair. Today's systems are as much as 60% more efficient than those systems manufactured as little as 10 years ago. In addition, if not properly maintained, wear and tear on a system can reduce the actual or realized efficiency of the system.
If you are concerned about utility bills or are faced with an expensive repair, you may want to consider replacing your system rather than enduring another costly season or paying to replace an expensive component. The utility cost savings of a new unit may provide an attractive return on your investment.
Q: How Expensive Are Air Conditioning And Heating Systems?
Many factors affect the cost of a heating or air conditioning system, including the size of your home, the SEER rating of the unit, the type and condition of the ductwork installed, and accessories you might need such as a thermostat or an electronic air cleaner. TB Lucas Mechanical will be happy to assist you in finding the right system to meet, not only your comfort needs, but also your household budget.
Q: How Long Can I Expect A New System To Last?
If you have a qualified technician perform regular preventive maintenance and service suggested for your unit, industry averages suggest that an air conditioner should last 10 - 15 years and a gas furnace should last as many as 15 - 20 years.
Q: How Do I Determine What Size Unit I Should Purchase?
Make sure your air conditioning/heating unit is properly sized for your home. Operating a unit that is too small or too large is highly inefficient. A unit that can't keep up with the hottest afternoons or coldest nights may well be a unit that is too small for your home. The technician that visits your home should be able to determine the size of unit that will best suit your needs.
Q: What Is A SEER?
Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio - This rating tells you how efficiently a unit uses electricity. The higher the number, the greater the efficiency. A unit with a higher SEER rating will use less electricity to maintain the same temperature as a unit with a lower SEER rating.
Q: Will A 14 SEER Unit Cool Better Than A 13 SEER Unit?
The capacity of an air conditioner should not be confused with the efficiency rating. New units of like capacity cool equally as well regardless of efficiency rating. However, the unit with the higher SEER uses less electricity. So, although you may pay more to purchase a 14 SEER than you would a 13 SEER, the benefit is in the energy cost savings. The higher efficiency units (14 & 15 SEER) will pay for themselves within 3 to 5 years, and continue saving you money if it's properly maintained.
Q: Do you offer 24 Hour Emergency Service?
We currently provide our customers with PMSA's emergency service, but do not offer 24 hour emergency service to anyone else.
Tip of the Month for July 2007
Please let the information below, remind you to stay cool and keep your A/C running at peak performance.
The following is information you should know and use to help assure that your air-conditioning is keeping you as cool as possible and working and cooling as efficiently as possible, saving you money. The following should help you decide if you need a professional to service your air-conditioning unit.
Air filter(s) MUST be clean. They should be located near the return air duct adjacent to the air handler or in a return air grill(s). Check your air filter every 30 to 90 days to make sure it is clean. Depending of the house, i.e. if you have animals you may need to clean the air filter more often.
Make sure that you wash the outside condenser coil once a year. If it's dirty, the A/C will run hot and inefficient. A sign of the coil being dirty is the small exposed copper (pipe) (tubing) line, usually 3/8" O/D connecting the inside unit with the outside unit will be HOT to the touch.
On the lower levels of the house where it is cooler cut back or cut off some vent registers and make sure that all the ones on the upper floors where it is warmer are open all the way!
Never leave the house and turn OFF the A/C. then come back home and turn it on and expect it to cool the house anytime soon because doing this will not allow the unit to cool down the house for MANY hours. You can set the temperature up five to ten degrees but NOT OFF. This is because of latent heat buildup in the walls and furniture in the house and will make the A/C work harder to remove the heat, this takes a long time.
The condensate line is a drain pipe coming from the indoor evaporator coil to a indoor drain or to the outside. This can become clogged and cause water to backup and can produce about five gallons of water an hour. This is where all the humidity and moisture from the house goes. If you see water around the indoor unit during the winter, you can take a wet/dry vac and put it on the end of the drain pipe. This will pull the clog out and the water should drain properly.
You should NEVER need to add refrigerant to a system, if you are adding refrigerant this means that there is a refrigerant leak in the system that SHOULD be fixed! "Why KILL the Ozone layer?"
Keep grass & weeds from blocking air flow on outside A/C.
Do NOT build a deck close to the top of the outside A/C or anything else that could cause the warm discharge air to re-circulate back to the unit.
Tip of the Month for June 2007
The registers throughout your home help to regulate the flow of air and to maintain the desired temperature.
To get the most out of your cooling and heating systems keep the air properly balanced in your home. In a 3 level home, always keep the middle level registers about halfway open. During the summer, keep the registers downstairs closed and upstairs open. Switch these during the winter, with the upstairs being closed and the downstairs being open.
By opening and closing the registers, you can determine the amount of cool or warm air that enters a room. Once the registers are adjusted, they, together with the thermostat, will maintain the temperature in your home. In addition to the air outlets, your home will have an air intake (return) register. None of these registers should ever be obstructed.
Tip of the Month for May 2007
Your old, inefficient Heating and Air Conditioning system is only adding costs to your ever-increasing utility bill.
Upgrade now to a new higher efficiency system and possibly reduce your energy costs by 30-40% per year. The most efficient systems on the market are up to 70% more efficient than the current average. You could dramatically reduce or even eliminate the utility increases while improving your comfort level.
This can save you hundreds of dollars on the price of your new system. Remember, the savings will continue for years to come, since a high-efficiency system means lower electric bills month after month. So while a high-efficiency cooling and heating system may cost a little more up front compared to a less efficient system, you'll recover the price difference in a very short time.
Central air conditioners are rated on their seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER). The higher the SEER rating, the more efficient the unit is. The minimum SEER rating allowed to be sold today is 13. Equipment installed before 1980 generally has a SEER rating of 7 to 8. SEER ratings also decrease over the life of a unit.
In many cases, an air conditioning system is taken for granted, receiving little or no maintenance unless the unit breaks down. If a system is neglected, there is a gradual loss of efficiency, which can add to operating costs without your knowledge.
Tuning up the air conditioning system, just as tuning up a car, can reduce the operating costs and prolong the life of the equipment. Before the hot weather arrives, schedule an inspection TBLM for your air conditioning system to make sure it is operating as efficiently as possible.
Remember to clean the filters every month and the coils and fins once a year. Clean filters keep dirt out of the return air duct vent and out of your air conditioning system. If dirt gets into the system, the system doesn't run as efficiently, and that costs you money. A dirty filter that causes a 10% reduction in airflow can increase operating costs by 11%.
Tip of the Month for April 2007
It is the single, most important thing you can do for your central heating/air conditioning system.
We suggest checking filters monthly. If you have a disposable type filter, (these usually have a cardboard edge), and it is dirty, just replace it.
A fiberglass filter must be changed every month. It is coated with oil which is what catches the particles as it passes through. This oil will dry out in a month’s time. A pleated filter can last you up to 3 months depending on the traffic in your home. Be sure to check it every month until you are sure how long this type will last for you.
If you have a permanent type filter, it is very simple to clean. Just follow these four simple steps.
Step 1 - With the thermostat in the “off” position, located and remove your air filter. Different systems have different filter locations. If you don’t know where your filter is located, now would be a good time to learn.
Step 2 - Using a garden hose with good water pressure, spray off the filter from both sides. You can repeat this process several times if the filter is very dirty. Just be careful not to use too much pressure or damage could be done to the filter media. When the water runs clear and the filter is clean you are ready to move to step 3.
Step 3 - Shake off the excess water. You may let the filter sit out and dry but it is not necessary. You can re-install a damp filter.
Step 4 - Slide the air filter back into the rack and you are done. Now you can turn your thermostat back on.
Remember to do this on a regular basis
Tip of the Month for March 2007
Most traditional heating and air conditioning systems have one centrally located thermostat that controls the temperature of the entire house. With a Zoned System, your home can be divided into as many as eight different zones depending on its size and the way you live. Each independent zone will have its own zone sensor, which will monitor and control the temperature in its area. As the day progresses, your family lives in different parts of the house.
Now, you'll be able to program each specific zone to be active or inactive depending on your schedule. For instance, you can set the bedrooms to be inactive
during the day while the kitchen and living areas are active.
ZONING is the independent temperature control of various areas of your home. It doesn't matter if it's done with one system, or multiple systems, with dampers or without dampers - the concept is the same. Here's the beauty of it - with zoning, you can select your own climate in each zoned area.
A home comfort system is made up of individual parts. And, even though each component is separate, they're all designed, engineered and integrated to work together as a system. A perfectly balanced system is the best way to get the best comfort and highest efficiency, however; not all existing systems
can be zoned. These and other factors can be explored by our qualified
professionals in order to determine your specific home comfort needs.
Tip of the Month for February 2007
For the past 20 years, former Vice President Al Gore has been traveling the world speaking about global warming, a passion of his since college. In 2006, his lecture was made into the documentary An Inconvenient Truth.
In his lectures, book and documentary, Gore explains that if we continue to ignore what we are doing to our planet, we risk destroying the very future of our civilization. And the former vice president says that we must act before it's too late.
It's been a hot topic lately, but what exactly is global warming?
First, it's important to understand that the atmosphere is extremely thin. That atmosphere, which is just a few miles above the Earth's surface, traps some amount of the sun's energy, or light radiation, as it hits the Earth. "That's a good thing, the natural trapping of [the sun's radiation], because it keeps the temperatures within comfortable boundaries," Gore says. While other planets are either much too hot or much too cold, Earth is just like Goldilocks—just right for life.
As humans add pollution like carbon dioxide (also known as CO2) into the air, the Earth's atmosphere becomes thicker. The thicker atmosphere traps more of the reflected radiation, raising overall temperature. This process is what we call "global warming." Other major factors adding to global warming, Gore says, include the burning of coal, oil, gasoline and forests.
As carbon dioxide levels explode all over the world, the effects are most obvious at the North and South Poles. Just as the North Pole is melting, so is the South Pole.
A temperature increase of 1 degree may not seem like much on a sweltering summer day, but Gore warns that if the world's average temperatures continue to rise, there could be catastrophic consequences.
You are not helpless in the fight against global warming. Gore says there are five things you can buy that will help solve the climate crisis…and save you a few bucks!
Compact fluorescent light bulbs: These energy-efficient bulbs cost less than $4 and are produced by major corporations like GE. If every household in America switched five regular light bulbs for five fluorescent bulbs, it would be the equivalent of taking 1 million cars off the highways for a full year.
Outdoor solar lighting: These yard or patio lights cost less than $20, and they don't burn any electricity or produce any CO2.
Programmable thermostats: Though these thermostats can be pricey, they can actually cut your heating and cooling costs. Set the setting so it's a little bit cooler in the winter and warmer in the summer when you're not in the house. A difference of 2 degrees can reduce a home's CO2 emissions by up to 9 percent over the course of a year.
Air filters: Changing the air filters in your heating and cooling systems regularly can knock 2 percent off of your CO2 output each year.
Electric hot water heater blanket: Hot water heaters use a lot of energy and generate a lot of CO2. A blanket costs less than $18 and can cut your home's CO2 emissions by almost 4 1/2 percent. Through education, Gore hopes that people will begin to understand the effects of global warming and take the warnings more seriously.
Excerpts from A Green “Truth” – Seen on Oprah 12/5/06
Tip of the Month for January 2007
Heating and cooling your home uses more energy dollars than any other system is your home. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, 56 percent of your utility bill typically
goes for heating and cooling. Follow these simple steps to help control your energy bill this winter. Set your thermostat as low as is comfortable.A programmable thermostat can help
by adjusting the temperature according to your schedule. It can cut back heating at night and turn it up again before you rise in the morning. The recommended setting for optimal savings is 68
degrees when you're awake and lower when you're sleeping or out of the house.Prevent heat loss by sealing air leaks around window and door frames with caulk or weather stripping.Make sure
your heating equipment is properly maintained and cleaned. An annual check-up by an HVAC contractor is recommended.Clean heating registers and make sure they're not blocked by furniture,
carpeting, or drapes.Cleaning or replacing the furnace filter on a regular basis helps the system perform more efficiently, saving money and keeping you warmer.Use exhaust fans sparingly in
the winter. Fans venting to the outdoors waste heating dollars.Keep the curtains and shades on your south-facing windows open during the day to allow sunlight in and closed at night to reduce
the chill from cold windows.Adjust ceiling fans so they help push warm air down and even out the heat in the room.Check the insulation in your attic, ceilings, exterior walls, floors and
crawl spaces to see if it meets the recommended levels for your area. Visit www.energystar.gov and click on "home sealing" to learn more about insulation levels.Tip of the Month taken
from January 2007 edition of Novec's 'What's Current' newsletter.
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